Plumbing Glossary

PLUMBING GLOSSARY

A

ABS-Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene: A rigid black plastic pipe used for Drain, waste, and vent lines. 
Aerator : A device screwed into the end of a faucet spout that mixes air into flowing water, and controls flow to reduce splashing. It sometimes contains a baffle to reduce flow to 2.5 gpm.
Air Lock : Blockage in the flow of liquid, esp. on the suction side of a pump caused by an air bubble in the line. 
Angle Stop : A shutoff valve between the water pipes and a faucet. Its inlet connects to the water supply pipe in a wall, and its outlet angles up 90 degrees toward the faucet. These are usually used to shut off water to a fixture in case of an emergency repair rather than daily usage. 
Anode Rod : A sacrificial rod installed in a water heater that protects the tank from corrosion, helping to extend the life of the tank. 
Anti-Siphon : Preventive device for the backflow of liquid into a system. Used on sprinkler systems to prevent water from trickling back into the supply that is feeding it. 

B

BTU : British Thermal Unit-A unit of heat energy required to raise the temperature of 1 lb. of water 1 degree Fahrenheit.
Back Flow Preventer : A device to prevent water from traveling from one system back into any part of the main distribution system, usually by siphoning, esp. into a potable water supply. This is generally required for sprinkler systems, handheld showers, pullout faucet spouts, kitchen sprayers, etc.
Back Pressure : Pressure that resists the flow of fluid in a piping system.
Backwater Valve : Sewer line valve that prevents sewage from flowing back into the house.
Ball Check Valve : A valve that uses a ball to seal against a seat to stop flow in one direction.
Ballcock : The fill valve that controls the flow of water from the water supply line into a gravity-operated toilet tank. It is controlled by a float mechanism that floats in the tank water. When the toilet is flushed, the float drops and opens the ballcock, releasing water into the tank and/or bowl. As the water in the tank is restored, the float rises and shuts off the ballcock when the tank is full.
Basin Wrench : A wrench with a long handle with jaws mounted on a swivel that allows the jaws to reach and handle nuts to fasten faucets to a previously installed sink.
Blowbag : A drain-cleaning device consisting of a rubber bladder with a hose fitting on one end and a nozzle on the other. The device attaches to a water hose and is inserted into a clogged drainpipe. As water is introduced, it expands to grip the pipe, and releases pulsating bursts of water through the nozzle, forcing water through the pipe to clear the obstruction.
Branch : Any part of a drain system other than the main, riser, or stack.
Branch Vent : A vent connecting one or more individual vents with a vent stack. 

C

Catch Basin : Large underground container, with a grate on the top, for collection of storm water run-off. It catches or collects dirt and other debris and prevents them from polluting streams and lakes.
Centerset : Style of bathroom faucet having combined spout and handles, with handles 4 inches apart, center-to-center. Also a single-handle faucet installed on 4 inches center-to-center faucet holes.
Check Valve : A type of backflow preventer installed in a pipe run that allows water to flow in only one direction.
Circuit Vent : Plumbing drainage system vertical vent which is run from the last two traps on a horizontal drain line to the main vent stack of a building drainage system.
Cistern : Rainwater storage tank, often underground.
Cleanout Plug : A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.
Closet : Toilet.
Closet Auger : A flexible rod with a curved end used to access the toilet's built-in trap and remove clogs.
Closet Bend : A curved fitting mounted immediately below the toilet that connects the closet flange to the toilet drain.
Closet Flange : An anchoring ring that attaches to the closet bend and secured to the floor. The heads of closet bolts, used to secure the toilet in place, insert into slots in the closet flange.
Cock : A faucet or valve for regulating the flow of water.
Common Vent : Building drain system vertical vent which connects two or more fixture branches on the same level.
Compression Fitting : A kind of tubing or pipe connection where a nut, and then a sleeve or ferrule is placed over a copper or plastic tube and is compressed tightly around the tube as the nut is tightened, formin a positive grip and seal without soldering. Also a flexible connector that has a nut and gasket designed to attach directly to an SAE standard compression thread, without the use of a sleeve or ferrule.
Compression Valve : A type of valve that is often used for water faucets. It is opened or closed by raising or lowering a horizontal disk by a threaded stem.
Coupling : Vent pipe hood, which protects it from the elements.
Culvert : A pipe-like construction of concrete that passes under a road to allow drainage. 

D

Desanco Fitting : A type of compression adapter that connects tubular brass fittings to PVC pipe.
Diaphragm : Flexible membrane in a valve that deflects down onto a rigid area of the valve body to regulate water flow from the supply lines. This eliminates the possibility of debris build-up within the valve.
Dip Tube : Tube inside the water heater that sends cold water to the bottom of the tank.
Direct Tap : Clamping device that allows a branch line to be drilled and tapped off a main line.
Discharge Tube : Outlet tube that connects a disposer or sump pump to the drain line.
Disposal Field : A series of trenches conveying the effluent from the septic tank laid in such a manner that the flow will be distributed with reasonable uniformity into natural soil.
Dishwasher Tailpiece : A flanged adapter connecting a basket strainer to the drainpipe with a dishwasher inlet.
Diverter : Valves which direct water to various outlets. They are used in showers, tubs, bidets, and sinks.
Drip Leg : A stub end pipe placed at a low point in the gas piping to collect condensate and permit its removal.
Drum Trap : An obsolete, non-vented drain lead or cast iron canister trap formerly used in sewer lines.
Duo Valve : A twin valve (hot & cold) with a single on/off lever used for washing machine boxes. 

E

E. Coli : The common abbreviation of Escherichia Coli. One of the members of the coliform groups of bacteria indicating fecal contamination.
Earthquake Strap : A metal strap used to secure a water heater to the house frame or foundation.
Efficiency : A product's ability to utilize input energy, expressed as a percentage.
Effluent : Septic system liquid waste.
Escutcheon : A decorative metal flange or trim shield beneath a faucet handle that covers the faucet stem and the hole in the fixture or wall.
Expansion Tank : A tank designed to absorb excess pressure due to thermal expansion (e.g. closed system).

F

Fall/Flow : The proper slope or pitch of a pipe for adequate drainage.
Female Fitting : A fitting that receives a pipe or fitting. A fitting into which another fitting is inserted.
Finish Plumbing : Installation of plumbing fixtures to make the system usable.
Flapper Valve : The part on the bottom of the toilet tank that opens to allow water to flow from the tank into the bowl.
Float Ball : The floating ball connected to the ballcock inside the tank that rises or falls with changing water levels in the tank, and actuates or shuts off the ballcock as needed.
Floor Flange : A fitting that connects a toilet to a floor drain.
Flushometer : Toilet valve that automatically shuts off after it meters a certain amount of water flow.
Flushometer Tank System : Toilet flushing system that uses supply water pressure to compress water to provide a pressurized flush as opposed to a gravity flush.
Flux : Paste applied to copper pipes and fittings before soldering to help the fusion process and prevent oxidation.
Footprint : The area of floor space taken up by a water heater or other appliance.
French Drain : A covered ditch containing a layer of fitted or loose stone or other pervious material. 

G

Gas Cock : Plug valve installed the main gas line and an appliance.
Gas Control : Device used to regulate gas pressure on a water heater.
Gate : A device that controls the flow in a conduit, pipe, or tunnel.
Gate Diverter : The pop-up lever on a tub faucet that activates the diverter valve.
Gravity Operated Toilet : A toilet that relies on the natural downward pressure of water in a toilet tank to flush the toilet effectively.
Gray Water : Waste water from sinks, showers, and bathtubs, but not toilets.

H

Horizontal Branch : Lateral drain pipes that run from plumbing fixtures to the waste stack in a building or in the soil.
Horizontal Run : The horizontal distance between the point where fluid enters a pipe and the point at which it leaves.
Hose Bibb : An outdoor faucet, also used to supply washing machines.
House Trap : U-shaped fitting with two adjacent cleanout plugs visible at floor level if main drain runs under floor.
Hubless (No-Hub) : Cast iron drainage pipe with neoprene gaskets and clamps.
Hydronic : System of forced hot water.

I

Indirect Wastes : Waste pipe used to convey gray water by discharging it into a plumbing fixture such as a floor drain.
Instantaneous Water Heater : A type of water heater that heats water as it flows through a heat exchanger coil.

J

Jet : An orifice or other feature of a toilet that is designed to direct water into the trapway quickly to start the siphon action.
Johnni-bolts : Closet bolts, used to mount toilet bowls to the closet flange.

K

Knockout Plug : PVC test plug.

L

Lavatory (Lav) : A fixed bowl or basin with running water and drainage for washing. Bathroom sink.
Leach Field : Porous soil area, through which septic tank leach lines run, emptying the treated waste.
Leader : Pipe carrying rainwater to the ground or sewer.
Lock Nut : Nut fitted into a piece of pipe and screwed onto another pipe to join the two pieces

M

Main : The primary artery of supply of the water supply or drain system in which all the branches connect. In the case of drains, known as the Main Vent.
Male Threads : Threads on the outside of pipes and fittings.
Malleable Fittings : Fittings made of metal which is soft and pliable.
Manifold : A fitting that connects a number of branches to the main; serves as a distribution point.
Mechanicals : The wiring, plumbing and heating and cooling systems in a building; also the components with moving parts such as furnaces, plumbing fixtures, etc.
Multi-Stage Pump : A pump that has more than one impeller.

N

Nipple : A short length of pipe installed between couplings or other fittings.
No-Hub Connector : A connector for no-hub iron pipe consisting of a rubber sleeve and a stainless steel band secured by hose clamps. A variation, a neoprene sleeve with two adjustable steel bands, is used for connecting dissimilar materials, as when connecting new plastic pipe to an existing cast-iron drainpipe. 

O

O-Ring : Round rubber washer used to create a watertight seal, chiefly around valve stems.
Oakum : Loosely woven hemp rope that has been treated with oil or other waterproofing agent; it is used to caulk joints in a bell and spigot pipe and fittings.
Outlet Sewer : Pipe section in a septic system which runs between the septic tank and the drainage field.

P

PVC : Polyvinyl chloride. A rigid white or cream-colored plastic pipe used in non-pressure systems, such as drainage, waste, and vent systems.
Packing : Fibrous material that is used on faucets to prevent leaks.
Packing Nut : Nut that holds the stem of a faucet in position & holds the packing material.
Peak Hour Demand : Time when the largest demand for hot water is needed.
Pipe Dope : Slang for pipe-joint compound. Substance applied to threaded fittings to create a watertight seal.
Pitch : Downward slope of a drain pipe in the direction of the water flow.
Plumb : Precisely vertical. Also to test for, or to make vertical. Also to perform plumbing work.
Plumber's Putty : Pliable, popular putty used to seal joints between drain pieces and fixture surfaces.
Plumbing Tree : Prefabricated set of drain waste, vent, and supply lines.
Pop-Up Drain : Type of drain assembly for lavatory and bath. When a lavatory lift rod or bath overflow plate lever is lifted, the pop-up drain closes so the lavatory or tub retains water.
Port : An opening in a burner head through which gas or an air-gas mixture is discharged for ignition.
Positive Displacement Pump : Called a PD pump. Gear, sliding vane, progressive cavity, lobe etc. the capacity determined by the pump speed. The maximum head is determined by the horsepower available and the casing strength.
Pressure Balance Valve : Shower mixing valve that automatically maintains balance between incoming hot and cold water supplies by immediately regulating fluctuations in pressure. As a result, temperature remains constant, though the outlet pressure may drop. Also known as an anti-scald valve.
Pressure Tank : Device used to pump water from a well.
Pressure Tubing : Tubing used to conduct fluids under pressure or at elevated temperatures or both, and produced to stricter tolerances than pipe.

R

Rated Storage Volume : Quantity of water stored in a tank.
Reamer : A grinding tool used to level or remove burrs from valve seats in faucets so that the valve stem will fit properly.
Recovery Capacity : The amount of water in gallons per hour raised 100 degrees F at a given thermal efficiency and BTU per hour input.
Reducer : A fitting that connects pipes of different sizes together.
Return Circulation System : Tempered water from or near the point of usage which eliminates waste of hot water used for long runs and adds storage to the system.
Revent : Pipe installed specifically to vent a fixture trap. Connects with the vent system above the fixture.
Reverse Trap Water Closet : A water closet having a siphonic trapway at the rear of the bowl, and integral flushing rim and jet.
Rigid Pipe : Pipe designed to transmit the backfill load to the foundation beneath the pipe. Rigid pipe must be supported on the bottom portion of the pipe.
Rim Holes : A series of small holes in the underside of a toilet rim, around the circumference of the bowl. Incoming water flows down into the bowl through these holes, creating a rinse effect or wash over the entire inner surface of the bowl.
Riser : A vertical metal or plastic tube or assembly that connects a faucet to the water supply stop valve. Usually made of copper. Metal Flex Risers are corrugated to facilitate bending. Also a supply line that rises from one story to the next.
Roof Flashing : Sheet metal installed at any break in a shingled roofline to prevent leaks. Also around sewer vents, fluepipes.
Rough-In : Installation of the drain, waste, vent, and supply lines in a structure to the proposed location of each fixture.
Rough-In Dimensions : The distance from a finished wall or floor to the center of the waste or supply opening or mounting holes on a plumbing fixture.
Run : A complete or secondary section of pipe that extends from supply to fixture or drain to stack.

S

Saddle Valve : A valve mounted on a pipe run by a clamping device, or fitting that taps into the side of a pipe, used to make quick connection to an existing line to provide a water supply for a low-demand device.
Sanitary Sewer : House drain that carries wastewater away from the house to a sewer system or septic tank.
Self-Rimming Sink : Sink with no metal ring that has a built-in lip of the same material which supports it in the vanity top.
Service Entrance : Pipe connecting the water company piping to the water meter.
Setting : Pumps' vertical distance in feet from the top of the well to the top of the pump.
Shroud : Color-matched component under a wall-mount lavatory that covers the drain outlet for aesthetic purposes.
Siphon-Vortex Water Closet : A toilet having a trapway at the rear of the bowl, integral flushing rim, and a water supply system with or without a jet, which does not feed directly into the trap.
Sleeve : Pipe which is passed through a wall for the purpose of inserting another pipe through it.
Slip Joint : A connection made with compression fittings.
Soil Stack : Largest vertical drain line to which all branch waste lines connect. This line carries waste to the sewer line.
Solder : Metal alloy that is melted to create a fused joint between metal pieces. Also the act of melting solder into the joint.
Spud : A threaded opening on the water heater tank. Also a tool for digging having characteristics of a shade and chisel.
Stack : The vertical main in the drain, waste, and vent system, extending one or more stories.
Stand Pipe : Open vertical pipe that receives water from a washing machine. Also the vertical pipe run supplying water to a fire sprinkler system; also large vertical pipe into which water is pumped in order to produce a desired pressure; a high vertical pipe or reservoir that is used to secure a uniform pressure in a water-supply system
Static Lift : The vertical distance between source and discharge water levels in a pump installation.
Stop Valve : The shutoff valve under sinks and toilets. Allows water supply to be cut off to one fixture without affecting the water supply to other fixtures.
Straight Cross : Fitting that connects four pipes of the same diameter.
Sump : A pit or pool for draining, collecting, or storing water. A chamber which provides water to the pump.
Sweating : Slang term for soldering. Also formation of condensation on the outside of pipes or toilet tanks.

T

T & P Valve : Temperature & pressure relief valve. A safety device used to expel excess pressure or heat from inside a tank.
Tailpiece : Section of pipe that runs between a fixture outlet and the trap.
Tail Pipe : The pipe added below the jet assembly, in a weak well application.
Tank : Fixture reservoir for flush water. On a conventional toilet, the ballcock, flush valve, and trip lever are installed in the tank. A tank lid closes the top tank opening.
Tank Cross : A double-tee-shaped fitting installed between a shallow well pump and the bladder tank with integrated valve and gauge fittings, and an outlet for a pressure-relief valve.
Tap Tee : Cast iron tee with a threaded female side inlet.
Thermocouple : Small electric generator. Electron flow between the hot junction of 1200 degrees F and cold junction of 600 degrees F creates millivoltage.
Thermostatic Valve : Pressure-balancing shower mixing valve with automatic temperature control. When temperature or pressure fluctuations occur at the water inlets, a thermal actuator adjusts the hot and cold ratio to maintain the original temperature setting.
Trap : Curved section of drain line that prevents sewer odors from escaping into the atmosphere. All fixtures that have drains must have a "P" trap installed. A toilet is the only plumbing fixture with an "S" trap.
Trap Arm : The waste arm portion of a drainage trap.
Trap Dip : The U-bend portion of a drainage trap.
Trap Primer : A small feeder line connecting the cold water line directly to the drainage trap, which releases a small amount of water to the trap should it run dry to maintain the water seal.
Trap Seal : Height of water in a toilet bowl "at rest.". It provides the water seal which prevents sewer gases from entering the home. It is measured from the top of the dam down to the inlet of the trapway. Also referred to as deep seal.
Trapway : Channel in a toilet that connects the bowl to the waste outlet. It is where the siphonic action takes place. The trapway is measured in terms of the largest diameter ball which can pass through it. Also called the passageway.
Trip Lever : Flush handle and actuating arm on a toilet tank. Also the lever that opens and closes the drain on the bathtub waste and overflow.

U

Uni-flex : One piece stop and riser combination. One-piece supply.
Union : Three piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe. Used primarily with steel pipe; never in a DWV system.
Usable Storage : Percentage of hot water that can be drawn from a tank before the temperature drops to a point that it is no longer considered hot.

V

Vacuum Breaker : An anti-siphon device that prevents the backflow of contaminated water into the water supply system.
Valve Dressing : Resurfacing a worn valve seat with a special tool. Stops leaks by providing a smooth sealing surface. Applies only to older compression style faucets.
Valve Seat : The non-moving part of a valve. Water flow is stopped when the moveable portion of the valve comes in contact with the valve seat.
Vent : A pipe that allows air into a drain system to balance the air pressure, preventing water in the traps from being siphoned off.
Vent Header : A vent pipe into which several vents connect. The vent pipe leads to the vent stack and out of the building.
Vent Stack : Upper portion of the soil stack above the topmost fixture through which gases and odors escape.
Venturi : A short tube with a tapered constriction in the middle that causes an increase in the velocity of flow of a fluid and a corresponding decrease in fluid pressure and that is used for creating a suction in a vacuum pump.
Viscosity : The resistance of fluids to flow, due to internal forces and friction between molecules, which increases as its temperature decreases.
Vitreous China : Ceramic materials fired at high temperature to form a non-porous body, having exposed surfaces coated with ceramic glaze fused to the body. This is used to form bathroom fixtures such as toilets, bidets, and lavs.

W

Washdown Water Closet : Water closet having a siphon trapway at the front of the bowl, and integral flushing rim.
Waste Arm : Drain extension pipe, usually to extend a sink drain into a wall.
Waste & Overflow : Drain assembly for a bathtub. The outlet at the top removes the overflow water during tub filling and the drain at the bottom removes wastewater when the tub is drained.
Widespread : A style of bathroom lavatory faucet having separate spout and handles, usually 8" from center of handle to handle.

Y

Yoke : Usually a brass casting that holds both the hot and cold valves and the mixing chamber for the water. May also refer to an assembly of copper or other metal which serves the same function.

Contributor: https://www.hypro-drains.com/glossary.php

Easy Ways to Practice Sports at Home When You Don't Have Much Space

Covid-19 has impacted our lives a big deal. Sports being part of our daily life routine, has not been spared either, but this does not mean that we should stay active and practice. Different athletes are using easy ways to practice sports at home when you don’t have much space. Let's take a look at them.

There are several ways you can practice sports at your home even when you have limited space. These can be done with minimal investment. According to Athletic Lift, once you move around and play a few sports, you’ll feel a lot better physically and mentally.

Basketball Dribbling Drills

The main aim of this drill is to improve focus and ball control.

You’ll Need

• A Football 

• 7-yard playground or bigger

• 5-10 training cones or any object that can be used in place of a cone

Steps To Follow

1. Arrange your cones in one alignment with a 2-feet spacing interval. It can be in a straight or a curved one.

2. Beginning from one end of your arrangement, make soft touches while weaving the ball in and out of the arrangement in a meandering manner until you reach the other end.

3. Dribble past the last cone as you return to your starting point.

4. Repeat until you feel it's enough.

Volleyball Set Drills

You can do these volleyball drills even when the space is small. You can do this even if you live in a studio apartment.

You’ll Need

• A volleyball, alternatively any light ball

Passing to Yourself

1. Stand with your feet spread slightly apart, keep your feet stationary.

2. Toss the ball off your fingers and hit it up in the air.

3. Keep passing the ball up the air to keep it from hitting the ground.

4. Pass the ball to the side also so that you have to pace up to keep it from coming down to the ground.

Setting to Yourself

1. This drill is best done while you're lying on your back, with knees slightly bent.

2. Raise your hands at least 5 inches above your face.

3. With your hand and ball in setting position, release the ball up to the air.

4. Maintain your position without moving as you set the ball multiple times.

Playing Volleyball Against the Wall

A good way to practice volleyball from the comfort of your home. This drill is important in improving accuracy, and ball handling. It's also important in improving general mood and blood circulation.

You’ll Need 

• Wall with no windows

• A ball of any type

Steps to Follow

1. After finding a wall with no glass windows, or any breakable objects. Mark it at the height of your net or choice so as to be used as the volleyball net. 

2. Stand at least 5 meters away from the wall

3. Begin by tossing the ball, then serve it against the wall.

4. Hit the wall as many times as possible to prevent the ball from falling.

5. While you're serving, aim the ball to a specific point on the wall. This can be done by marking a small spot on the wall slightly above the “imaginary net” line.

On the Run Dribbling

While this drill is focused on improving ball control and handling when you're in motion, it also plays a big role in your cardiovascular health. It also improves mood especially during the times of pandemic like this that has affected most lives. This drill can be done on a basketball court too, by maintaining your dribbling while running fast. 

You’ll Need

• Soccer ball or basketball 

• At least 10 yards size field

Steps to Follow

1. Identify a field for instance, on the sidewalk, or the grass.

2. From one end of the playground run as fast as possible.

3. While running, start dribbling to the other end of the field and back to your start position.

Basketball Figure 8 Drills and Pass

This drill is aimed at improving ball passing, handling, and eye to hand coordination.

You’ll Need

• Basketball

• Brick/stone wall 

Steps to Follow

1. Stand with your feet slightly spread apart.

2. Dribble and weave the ball through your legs in a figure of 8 manner.

3. After a complete cycle, bounce the ball on the wall, as if you are passing the ball.

4. Catch the ball, and repeat the drill up to 50 times a session.

Guest Contributor: Allen Michael

What To Consider When Adding An Outdoor Living Area

If you already have a home that feels and looks like a resort, adding an outdoor living area would be a great idea. Regardless of size, your outdoor living area can become a source of solace and refuge, a place where you can relax and unwind. 

However, turning your outdoor living area into the ideal getaway will entail more than just choosing the right patio shades or outdoor furniture. It will require thorough planning so you can cover all the bases.

Below are things you need to take into account when adding an outdoor living area:

Size and shape

The area you'll need for your outdoor living space will depend on the activities and functions you intend to do. As a general rule of thumb, ensure sufficient space is available to enable people to move around comfortably from inside to outside without having to navigate around fixtures and furniture.

Privacy and weather protection

Outdoor living space is an external area that's often exposed to the elements. Fortunately, there are various ways to design an outdoor living space to suit the changing weather conditions—from summer to winter. 

Some of these measures include patio shades, sliding screens of aluminum or timber, roll down blinds, or fixed or adjustable louvers. Bi-folding louvers or glass screens can also be used to close off the outdoor living space during nasty weather.

Screens and blinds can also help regulate the privacy of the outdoor living space. Depending on your neighbors' proximity, privacy has to be a top priority to avoid feeling on constant display or becoming a nuisance to the neighbors.

Roofs

To make your outdoor living area a more inviting space, you can invest in modern roofing systems that will open in good weather and close when the weather elements are unfavorable. 

Modern roofs can also help drain away stormwater like any regular roof. Not only that, it also adds flexibility to the outdoor living area as it can also be used to control the amount of daylight you want to let in.

Walls

When it comes to flooring, ceramic tiles can be a great option as they can provide a durable and easy to maintain finish that can resist warping or fading even when exposed to direct sunlight. Natural timber is also a great alternative as it provides warmth and adds to the visual appeal. It can also be very durable when looked after accordingly.

However, in most cases, the outdoor flooring of choice is based on the type used within the house. Many homeowners prefer the continuity of the same floor finish inside and out, as this reinforces the seamless indoor and outdoor relationship most people want to achieve.

Access

The location of the access to the internal space and the position of the outdoor living space needs careful deliberation. If you intend to host outdoor entertainment and dining, proximity to the dining and kitchen is crucial. From the outdoor living space, access needs to be provided to other external areas, including the garden, garage, swimming pool, etc. 

The circulation from the house through the outdoor living space should also be taken into account alongside the positioning of the dining tables, furniture, and other fixtures. Any changes in the level between the yard and the outdoor living area should also be considered, so access is safe and convenient.

Attention should also be given to fences and pool gates as they can often impede convenient access. The access door from the house to the living space is also often given much consideration. There are various options available, including stacking sliding doors, bi-folding doors, and French doors.

When choosing a door, you can narrow down your options by selecting one that provides ease of access without costing a fortune. You should also go for doors that allow unrestricted flow from the inside out as they can be crucial when socializing or entertaining friends, guests, or extended family.

Final Thoughts

Over the years, outdoor living spaces have become increasingly popular and have become a staple part of most contemporary homes. Given that you cover all the bases, you can easily transform your outdoor living area into a beautiful space where you can relax and unwind and entertain friends and loved ones.

Guest Contributor: Anna Fox

How to Prepare a Room for Painting

Most people have been spending more time at home lately - you might be sick of those bright blue walls that were so trendy five years ago. Does a room in your home need a refreshment? A good place to start is with a fresh layer of paint. If you plan to sell your home, painting is a great remodeling strategy that provides a handsome ROI. But before you break out a bucket and roller, you’ll need to take some steps to get everything in order. Properly preparing a room before painting it will ensure the best results:

Move or cover all the furniture. Ideally, you should move all your furniture out of your room, but that’s not always possible if you’re short on space. In that case, use drop cloths to cover all your furniture from accidental paint splatters. Protect your floors by covering them with drop cloths, as well.

Clean the walls. Dust will interfere with a smooth paint application. Use a vacuum on baseboards and crown molding to clean those hard-to-reach places. Then, wash your walls with a cloth and warm soapy water. This will remove any stains and dirt. If you’re painting a room that’s been exposed to oil (like a kitchen), you may need to use a grease-removing product. Humid areas like the bathroom may have mildew growing in the corners, in which case you’ll need an abrasive sponge and a solution with bleach. Allow the walls to dry completely before applying any paint. 

Assemble your tools. Unfortunately, paint doesn’t apply itself. You’ll need to arm yourself with the right supplies to do a good job. Make a list of the items that you have and what you’ll need to pick up from the hardware store. To name a few here, you’ll need paint, brushes, a roller, a tray, painter’s tape, cleaning rags, drop cloths, and clothes that you won’t mind getting covered in paint. 

Wear protective equipment. Before you open up a paint bucket, wear a respirator mask! It’s important to wear one that can filter out harsh chemicals. Beware of harmful chemicals that can irritate your lungs and cause headaches. If you can’t wear a mask, be sure to open all doors and windows to allow a cross breeze through the room.

Repair any holes or damages in the walls. For this step, you’ll need putty, a knife, and sandpaper. Fill in any holes or imperfections on your wall using the putty and smooth the raised edges with the knife. Once it’s dry, file it down with sandpaper so that it’s level with the rest of the wall. If the existing paint is flaking in any areas, smooth it away using sandpaper to ensure a smooth application of paint.

Protect electrical elements and light switches. Remove the covers from electrical outlets and switches, and cover them with painter’s tape. You don’t want the paint to get inside of your electrical outlets, so don’t neglect this step.

Use painter’s tape around baseboards and windows. You are painting your room, but you don’t want to paint everything in it. Seal the edges surrounding your doors, windows, baseboards, and crown molding. If you have painted before, then you’ll know the satisfaction of removing the painter’s tape once you’ve finished the job. Something to keep in mind is that you should never remove the tape before the paint has dried completely, or else you’ll wind up with jagged edges. Rather than ripping it off all at once, try to do it slowly. 

Choose your wall color. The final step is choosing which color will work best for your space. If your room is small, select paint colors to make a room look bigger. But if size isn’t a concern, then you have free reign. Those who want to sell their homes in the future should keep in mind that most buyers like neutral colors. There’s also the option of going bright and bold - it is your home, after all. Once you’ve chosen your color, determine how many gallons of paint you’ll need by measuring the square feet. When covering a darker color with a lighter one (like black to white), you will need a few extra coats. Factor in that you might want a little extra to use for touch-ups in the future. 

Apply a primer. A base coat will help your paint job last for years to come. It can also help you transition from a darker color to a lighter one. The primer you need will depend on the type of paint you’re using. Oil and water don’t mix, so if you’re using an oil-based paint, you’ll need an oil-based primer (and vice versa for latex-based paint). 

The painting process will go much more smoothly if you take the above steps first. After all this preparation, rolling layers of paint on your walls will seem like a breeze. It’s amazing what a coat of paint can do to transform a familiar space and make it feel brand new.

Guest Contributor: Christie Simon

10 Tips on How to Stay Warm This Winter Without Spending a Fortune

Cooler temperatures are rapidly approaching and if you, like me, have huddled down next to the heater in the evenings, simultaneously bemoaning and dreading the impending heat bills, you’re not alone. Here are 10 simple tips on how you can stay warm this winter, without spending a fortune. 

1. Insulate your house. Perhaps your house is older and in the middle of the winter, you notice lots of icicles hanging off your gutters. Your house is leaking heat and therefore, you’re wasting money. Spend the time before the winter really starts by properly insulating your house and especially around your windows. This may be as simple as caulking around the windows, but it can make a lot of difference, and save you money in the long run. 

2. Buy a heat pump. Not only will it work during the summer to keep you cool, but it will reverse during the winter to help you stay warm. They’re efficient and economizing, and use less energy than regular heaters. 

3. Reverse fan direction. During the summer you want your fan to be pushing air down so the circulation is increased. But in the winter, you want the cold air pulled up and the warmer air pushed down. Consult your owners manual to make sure you have the fan settings right. 

4. Hot water bottle. This is a favorite trick of mine. Hot water bottles are cheap, long lasting, and retain heat for hours. You could cozy up with one on the couch while another one is heating the foot of your bed. Buy good quality bottles and accessorize them with padded exteriors that help retain the warmth and prevent you from burning yourself if the water is extra hot. 

5. Embrace the sunshine. Don’t keep your blinds pulled during the winter. Let the sun shine in and use the natural warmth to help heat your house. It can make such a difference and that combined with better insulation allows your house to warm up and stay warm through the day. 

6. Drink hot beverages. During the warm summer months, you probably swap your coffee for an iced one, but as the temperatures cool, you probably will want to swap back to a hot cup. Coffee, tea, and cocoa all are warming drinks that aren’t very expensive, especially if you make them yourself, and can help you stay warm during the cool winter months. 

7. Bundle up. Break out those woolen sweaters and socks because bundling up is one of the best ways to stay warm during the winter months. If you’re looking to invest in a warmer wardrobe, buy natural fabrics, such as wool or cotton, that last longer than man-made ones and will naturally biodegrade once they’re no longer wearable. Wool especially is fantastic in the winter because it helps regulate the body temperature. Furthermore, wool fibers last longer than cotton and can be bent hundreds of times more before they wear out. There is a reason our ancestors wore wool, and we should too. 

8. Invest in a wood stove. Using a woodstove can be an investment, or it can be a much cheaper and more efficient way to heat your house, depending on your circumstances. If you live in an area where wood is cheap and you don’t mind the extra work, using a wood stove as supplemental heating can be a great way to save money on conventional modes of heating. 

9. Open your oven. Are you a baker or do you use your oven often? If so, once you’re done cooking, crack it open so the excess heat leaks out and helps warm up your house. It will help keep your kitchen toasty warm and comfortable and help save money. With this in mind, bake away!

10. Turn up your heat in the morning. Keeping your house between 60*-67 at night is recommended anyhow for optimal sleep. If you keep your house cool but not chilly, you’ll be cool in the morning, so turn the heat on then and warm up your house during the day. At night, the temperature will cool down again but since your house will be set at a cooler temperature, it will cost you less overall. Essentially, you’re only using your heaters when you’re up and around there house needing it. 

In conclusion, there are lots of ways you can save money this winter by preparing ahead of time to save money on your heating. Of course, this list does not take into account a heater that is maybe broken or not working properly. If that describes your heater, definitely have it fixed before the chill of winter sets in so you stay warm and comfortable all winter long.

Guest Contributor: Allie Shivers

5 Simple Ways to Upgrade your Home Gym

As you spend more time exercising at home, you would notice some things to improve in terms of space, equipment, and the overall feel. With these five simple ways to upgrade your home gym, you can create your dream workout space and get inspired to fulfill fitness goals. 

5 Simple Ways to Upgrade your Home Gym

Designing a functional setup, changing equipment, constructing efficient storage, investing in lights and audio systems, and saving workout routines are simple ways to upgrade your home gym and achieve a healthier lifestyle through exercise. Use this guide to start renovating your home gym. 

Invest in the Right Equipment

Get rid of any machine or tools you don't use, as these can only add clutter and take up much-needed space. Some of them may be showing signs of wear, or they simply don't fit your fitness regimen anymore. 

Instead, upgrade into better equipment that can last long and bring new life to your home gym. You can use resources from Simple Fitness Hub to pick workout equipment appropriate for your goals.

• Cardio: Smith Machine such as a treadmill, spin bike, and rowing machine utilize body weight to enhance your strength and cardio. A 30-minute jump rope session is a more affordable option, especially if you don't have space for huge equipment. 

• Strength: Strength training involves routines that improve endurance. You can do this by using battle ropes, weights, barbells, kettlebells, and dumbbells. Wearing resistance bands also supports your mobility. 

• Flexibility: It's essential to retain flexibility as you age. Things like foam and rumble rollers can assist your body when exercising to avoid overstretching.

Design A Functional Setup

If you've ever gone to an overcrowded gym, you appreciate the importance of having space to exercise safely and comfortably. You can achieve that in your home by using rubber, foam, carpet, or vinyl flooring to protect the body from sweat drips and uneven surfaces. 

Since there may not be somebody else to coach you, placing mirrors on walls can help check your form and be your own coach. Besides, putting up mirrors can make space appear larger.

Moreover, set up a hydration station with clean towels and plenty of bottled water to keep your body clean and hydrated. 

Build an Efficient Storage

Sustainable storage is key if you want to pack a ton of equipment in your home gym. You can keep small items like medicine balls or yoga mats in storage cubes. You can designate one side of the wall to install panels or pegboards to hang resistance bands or jump rope. 

If you have sets of kettlebells and dumbbells, opt for a compact yet heavy-duty weight rack to keep all items neatly tucked in a corner. 

Install Proper Lights and Audio System

Why listen to music on headphones when you can blast your favorite pump-up tunes through the speaker? Whether it's a Bluetooth speaker or a boom box, make sure that the volume is on safe levels or just enough to energize you through intense workout routines. 

Meanwhile, the right lighting makes it easier to see your form, ensuring you get to do routines properly. When you see what you're doing, you can adjust your movements and avoid making workout mistakes. 

Save Workout Routines

Regardless of how spacious your home gym is, or no matter how much equipment you buy, you won't be able to optimize them without commitment to exercise. 

You can save fitness routines from the internet or various instructors to guide you. Likewise, you may download apps that can suggest exercises suitable for your body's needs and goals.

Conclusion

Go over renovating ideas until you find what works best for your needs and liking. Use this list to start upgrading your workout space, and you can make it feel and look like a real gym with a personal touch. 

Guest Contributor: Allen Michael

How to Unclog a Drain

The warning signs of a clogged drain are clear — water pooling or refusing to go down the drain. Sometimes, removing that clog can be quite a hassle, and that’s why people often go straight to a plumber for help.

Depending on availability, it might take a few days for a plumber to clear your drain. When it comes to minor issues, why not try a few DIY hacks before resorting to the professionals? Read below to learn some suggested methods to unclog a stubborn drain.

Start With a Plunger

Plungers are the tried-and-true method. Unless there is a serious problem (e.g., a root growing through a buried drain line), this is probably the method with which a professional plumber will start. Depending on the type of drain you’re unclogging, there are various kinds of plungers that will work:

• Sink plungers are the conventional type that usually come to mind when we imagine plungers — with a rubber cup that is designed to seal to the bottom of the sink.

• Toilet plungers have more of a bell shape with a flange around the bottom that helps it seal in a toilet bowl.

Choose the right plunger, and give it a try to clear debris from your drain.

Try Homemade Drain Cleaners

Commercial drain cleaners are marketed as a quick and easy solution to clogged drains, but plumbers generally don’t recommend them. That’s because these solutions contain chemicals that can damage your plumbing — and harm your septic system, if you have one. What’s more, the harsh chemicals could damage porcelain toilet bowls, sinks, and other fixtures. Thus, while a commercial drain cleaner may have cleared your drain, it can also leave you with bigger problems to fix.

That said, there are homemade options that can clear small clogs without causing damage to plumbing and fixtures. Start with soda to clear a small clog. It’s bubbly and a little acidic, which will help clear debris. If you have a 2-liter bottle handy, pour the liquid down the drain and wait a few minutes before rinsing with warm water.

Baking soda and vinegar is an all-natural method that you probably have in your kitchen. First, bring a pot of water to a boil and pour that down the drain. Once you’ve done that, measure a ½ cup of baking soda and pour down the drain. When the baking soda and water had roughly a minute to reach the clog and start working, mix 1 cup of hot water with 1 cup of vinegar. Pour this down the drain, and wait for about five minutes before rinsing the drain with clear water.

Baking soda and salt can help break up a clog, too. Mix 1 cup of baking soda with a ½ cup of salt. Then, pour it down the drain. It can take a while to work, so let it sit for a few hours or overnight, then flush the drain with boiling water.

Take Apart the P-Trap

This is among the most common areas for a clog to occur because curving pipes are more likely to catch debris than straight spans. If you can access the drain’s P-trap, then you should be able to take it apart with channel-lock pliers or a wrench. Make sure to place a bucket beneath the trap before taking it out, since wastewater is likely to spill from it. Once you’ve removed the trap, clear any debris you find. Then you’re free to reassemble. Remember to run water through it once you’ve replaced it to check fittings for leaks.

Use a Drain Snake

This is the next tool that a professional is likely to try after a plunger. Snakes are long cables — often with an attachment on the end — that are designed to be run down a drain to break up a clog so that it flushes. You can find snakes at most hardware and home improvement stores — in different lengths, too — if you have a longer drain to clear.

Try a Coat Hanger If You Don’t Have a Snake

Maybe the hardware store is closed, but if you have a metal coat hanger on hand, you can turn it into a drain snake. Simply straighten it so that you have a long, sturdy piece of wire. Then run it down the drain until it reaches the clog. This will help you break up the clog so that you can pull it out or flush it with running water.

Chances are, at least one of these options will get your drain flowing once more. If none of these methods work, however, it might be time to contact a professional.

Author bio: Excited to share her love of home design and décor with readers, Jaclyn Crawford started with ImproveNet in 2016. As a staff writer, she enjoys chronicling the latest trends and ways you can make your home the loveliest it can be. You may also find her in ImproveNet videos, sharing tips and trends for your home.

How Do Misting Systems Work?

In essence, a misting system refers to a range of outdoor cooling methods that uses a fine spray of water to cool you, your family, guests, workers, customers, and yes, even your pets! Other terms for misting systems include spray cooling and fogging systems. 

Misting Systems: How Exactly Do They Work?

All misters work with the natural cooling effect that occurs when water evaporates in warm air. This is also called evaporative cooling. Most misters work beautifully in dry weather. Some also work superbly with humid weather, although not all. It is recommended that you do your homework before purchasing one for a damp area. 

Misting systems offer several excellent benefits. They can minimize dust and odors in a specific area. They are also great at regulating the humidity, so they are fantastic for atriums, courtyards, greenhouses, and the like. What’s really amazing is misting systems can cool you down without getting you wet.

Water is forced through very minute nozzles to create a very fine fog or mist. As the droplets of water evaporate, it cools the air instantaneously—the finer the mist, the more thorough the evaporation.

The terms fogger and mister are used interchangeably, and many people often confuse one for the other. Some misters produce a spray made of large droplets that can get you wet. These systems often use larger spray nozzles and low or medium water pressures.

On the other hand, foggers use tiny spray nozzles (to create a fog-like mist) and high water pressure. The fog-like mist evaporates before it can get anything wet.  

Your Key to Categorizing Misting Systems: Think Water Pressure

Let's get something straight: all foggers are a kind of misting system. However, not all misting systems are foggers. To avoid confusion, it is crucial to think in terms of water pressure—low, medium, and high.

Since water pressure is the primary indicator of any misting system's performance, it is used as an accurate way to categorize the systems. Water pressure is measured in PSI (pounds per square inch) or BAR. One BAR is equivalent to 14.7 PSI, while one PSI is equivalent to .0689 BAR.

Low Pressure

Low-pressure systems can be likened to being near a sprinkler. It can cool you down and might also get you a bit wet. This kind is also the simplest and the least expensive of the three options. 

Low-pressure systems also won't require electricity. They typically work with gravity-fed water pressures. While their spray can cool a small area, you need to be near the nozzles to cool. However, the closer you are to the nozzles, the wetter you will also get.

Medium Pressure

Medium pressure systems use motorized pumps to raise the water's pressure to 100 - 250 psi / 7 - 17 bar. The spray water this system produces is fine enough to cool you in hot weather and is less likely to get you wet. 

High Pressure

This is the system that will provide the maximum among the three options. High pressure misting systems are considered ideal for areas with very high humidity. It can cool you down effectively without getting anything wet. 

High pressure and medium systems typically use pumps to boost the water pressure from any water source. The higher the resulting pressure, the cooler (and drier!) you'll feel.

What Makes a Misting System Great?

A misting team has to be one thing to be considered great: it has to meet your needs. Even if you invest in the highest-powered and the best system but only have a small patio in a quiet neighborhood, the system might be too expensive, too noisy, and too much. In short, it's not the right fit for you.

What about your kids' sports team? In most cases, a lighter, smaller, and less expensive system that will not get them wet is ideal. However, it might not be the best option for an elegant wedding reception with 200 guests.

Conclusion

Finding the right mister that will best suit your needs is no walk in the park. However, once you gain a better understanding of how they work, you can easily make knowledgeable and educated comparisons. From there, you can effortlessly decide which system works best for you. Check out this Arizona mist systems for more details.

Guest Contributor: Anna Fox

Small Studio Apartments: Are They the Next Big Thing?

If you already have a studio or if you rent one, we have some good news for you: these little units are the next big thing in real estate. Since people are downsizing globally and looking for ways to live more efficiently, studios are a perfect solution for all their needs. But why are these small studio apartments so attractive to investors and buyers? Here’s all you need to know. 

Their location is usually top-notch

Location is one of the most important driving factors when it comes to investing in real estate, and what small studios lack in space, they make up for in location. Major city centers are often the best places to buy a property, but prices are usually astronomical. Finding an affordable property with a bold design can be hard in these areas, but studios have smaller square footage which lowers the price tag and allows even beginner investors to grab a property on a prime location. 

They are affordable

If your budget doesn’t allow you to get a traditional investment property like a multi-family or single-family home, consider getting a studio apartment. This is the best way to invest as little money as possible and gain exposure to the real estate market. Also, they are easy to rent out or sell with some minor staging efforts, so if that’s your goal, you’re all set. 

They are practical

Today, people are rapidly leaving the countryside and moving to cities, so urban areas need a practical and functional solution that will accommodate a large number of residents. According to some predictions, 68% of the global population will live in cities, so major urban environments are opting for the concept of compact living when it comes to residential architecture. 

Many of the world’s metropolises like Hong Kong especially love this downsizing trend, and the concept of small studio apartments is blooming there. Everyone from digital nomads to young professionals and students is choosing apartments for rent in Hong Kong thanks to their convenience, price and low-maintenance costs. With all the necessary amenities at your disposal, it’s easy to see why studios are so practical. 

They are green

More and more people today are choosing a more eco-friendly and sustainable lifestyle that rangers from dietary changes and adopting better shopping habits to saving energy and water and downsizing to more eco-conscious housing solutions. Small, compact living spaces are always greener than big houses, no matter how well designed. Smaller square footage equals less energy consumption, less maintenance and less furniture, all of which can contribute to your smaller carbon footprint. 

They are easy to maintain

Like stated above, studios are small and they naturally require less cleaning and decluttering. Small studios are also easy to organize and keep clean since there’s less room for decoration and other trinkets that do nothing but collect dust. This makes them perfect for minimalists or people who hate or simply don’t have time for cleaning. In general, one can clean and declutter an entire studio apartment in an hour while ensuring maximum living and sleeping comfort. 

They bring a good return on investment

If you intend to break into the real estate market and make money on your first try, go with small studios. According to research, small studio apartments increase your ability to make money and yield an excellent return on investment. Even though the rent in studios is more than affordable to tenants, the price is still high when taking into consideration the square footage. Usually, small units outperform big apartments and family homes, they have high occupancy rates and sport pretty high rental-rate premiums. Since they are more or less a safe bet, small studios are perfect for beginner real estate investors, especially those who don’t like to gamble too much. 

Studio apartment cons

Don’t think small studio apartments don’t come without a flaw. No matter if you’re investing or renting these small units, you need to know about the risks. In general, certain countries and states have minimum apartment size requirements, so super-small micro-apartments might create a problem. There are also various housing codes, zoning regulations, municipal ordinances, minimum parking standards, unit-mix rules, outdoor open-space and indoor common-space provisions to look into. 

Additionally, even though small studios always have their place in the rental market, they are not suitable for everyone. Usually, they are reserved for single working professionals or students. This means your tenant group will get smaller and you will need to forget about families. 

In real estate, bigger is not always better. While small studio apartments have their cons, they have a huge pile of benefits to offer to both investors and residents, so if you want something practical and cost-effective, go small with a studio. 

About the author: Mike Johnston is an avid blogging enthusiast and experienced freelance writer with a focus in real estate, home improvement, interior design, and sustainable living.

Steps You Need To Take To Recover From Fire Damage in Your Home

Seeing your home on fire can’t be easy.

Even if only a portion of it burns down, it’s still painful to witness something you worked so hard to acquire or build go up in flames.

Then again, there isn’t much you can do while the fire is still ongoing. By the time firefighters declare the fire under control, your home will have already sustained fire damage.

What’s critical is what you do once the fire is out.

You will need to take steps toward fire damage restoration, among other things, and ensure that you and your family will recover from the disaster just fine.

Secure Your Family and Find A Place To Stay

Whether it’s a fire or some other disaster that strikes your home, your top priority is to ensure your loved ones' safety. Make sure that everyone is safe, then find a place to stay not only for the night but for some time, depending on the degree of fire damage to your home.

Whether you decide to stay at a hotel or with relatives or friends, you will need to check your home insurance policy if you have one. A standard homeowners insurance policy has an ALE or additional living expenses provision, which will pay for your meals, hotel bills, and other expenses you incur while your home is under repair.

Call Your Insurance Provider

Another important thing you must do after—or even during—a fire in your home is to place a call to your insurer. Since fire is a covered peril in a standard home insurance policy, it’s best to give your provider a heads up that you will be filing a claim so the entire process can start as soon as possible.

With your home insurance coverage, you will have the money not only to pay for the cost of repairing the damaged parts of your home but also to replace the personal belongings you lost in the fire. Furniture, appliances, clothing, computers, and other possessions are usually covered by home insurance.  

Wait Until It’s Safe To Enter Your Home

Naturally, you would want to enter your home as soon as possible, but you can’t do that right away, given that it’s still dangerous to do so. Aside from the heat, soot, and fumes, your home's structural integrity may have been compromised by the blaze.

Wait until the proper authorities declare the area safe before entering your home to try to salvage some of your belongings or assess the extent of the fire damage.

Ask For Police Assistance In Securing Your Home

If your house was only partially burned, that means some of your belongings could still be intact.

With you staying elsewhere for the next few days at the very least, your home could become a very attractive target for burglars or looters.

You also run the risk of coming home to the sight of squatters in your living room, drawn by your conspicuous absence from the premises.

Contact the police, who can lend some assistance in securing your home for the days that you’re not there.

Document All Fire Damage

When it’s safe to enter your home, document all the fire damage. Proper documentation is extremely important for insurance purposes, so take photos and videos of charred walls, collapsed ceilings, and any other evidence of the fire.

Call Your Utility Providers

In all likelihood, you never had the time or opportunity to switch your gas or electrical mains off at the onset of the fire that hit your home.

In any case, firefighters will be doing that as they put out the fire, you still need to call your utility providers and inform them of what happened.

Wait for word from the fire department if it’s safe to turn on the gas and electricity. Under no circumstances should you switch them on without their say-so.

Contact A Fire Damage Restoration Company

While you can always personally take on the gargantuan tasks of cleaning up the fire damage to your home and restoring it to the way it was before the fire hit, it would still be best to leave them all in the hands of professional fire damage restoration specialists.

A fire damage restoration company is staffed by well-trained, extensively-experienced, and well-equipped technicians who know every technique necessary to perform excellent fire damage cleanup and restoration. By the time they’re done, you can be sure that your home will look like a fire that never hit it at all.

Guest Contributor: Rachel Anderson